As I sit in my van, gazing out at a postcard-perfect view of Assisi, all I can really see—beyond its mesmerizing beauty and the rural landscape that unfolds before the town—is a sense of peace.

There is a place of true spirituality in Italy, and that place is Umbria.

Recently, I visited some of the most spiritual locations along the trail of Francis of Assisi.

La Verna: A Whispering Forest

The first place—far exceeding any expectations—was the Monastery of La Verna, in the Casentino National Park. Technically, it's in Tuscany, in the province of Arezzo.

It’s nestled in a mystical forest, with trees towering 30 to 40 meters high. The forest is not only exceptionally healthy—almost unnaturally so—but also vibrantly green, with iridescent moss and blooming wildflowers.

There you can find the cave in which Francesco used to sleep, like the yogis of India, and the spot where he received the stigmata, among many other things. The monastery has been built around sheer forest.

A forest that whispers. A gentle, cold wind weaves through it—strong enough to stir a dance among the branches and leaves, like a rhythmic breath, like nature speaking. Yet not a single trunk bends. Each tree stands perfectly straight, gazing skyward.

As I approached the monastery for the first time, I had no idea what to expect. I had never even heard of it before. But the moment I arrived, I knew: this place deserves at least a week of integration. It's that profound. A sacred space in the truest sense of the word. It’s the best monastery I have ever seen in my life. A complete surprise.

I visited twice—once in the quiet of late afternoon, and again the following morning. Ancient and built of stone and wood, it radiates balance and simplicity. As I sat in the main church, staring at a statue of Mary on the altar, my heart sank. I couldn’t help it. It was as if a melody of gentleness and love awakened inside me.

This place—La Verna—is not just beautiful. It speaks to the heart in silence, in moss, in wood, in stone. In the tender gaze of a divine mother.

Assisi: Devotion in the Everyday

The second place I visited was Assisi. Unsurprisingly, it’s a town dedicated to San Francesco, and the locals wear that identity with pride. They seem to reflect his spirit: kind, helpful, and humble.

Although the basilica was too crowded to feel spiritually intimate, it still impressed me with its medieval architecture, art, and understated beauty—so different from the ornate grandeur of Roman churches.

Eremo delle Carceri: Silence Among the Trees

Lastly, I visited the Eremo delle Carceri, another monastery where Francis spent a lot of time in mediation, nestled in the woods above Assisi. Here, nature and spirituality blend seamlessly again. Francesco’s cave remains, as well as his altar among secular holm oak trees.

It is not a park, but a sacred space. As I sat on a wooden bench near Francesco’s simple altar—a large wooden cross surrounded by many smaller ones left by visitors—my heart was full once again. While I wept in silence, I could sense a hand gently caressing my face.

Where the Sacred Meets the Soul

What I found in Umbria was not just beautiful landscapes or historic monasteries—it was a reminder that true spirituality lives in silence, in the rustling of forest leaves, in a stone cave once used for sleep and prayer, in the kindness of strangers, and in the stillness of one’s own heart.

Each place — La Verna, Assisi, Eremo delle Carceri — spoke the same language: simplicity, harmony, and connection. Nature and spirit are not separate here; they embrace one another like old friends.

For someone who has long been disillusioned by the outer trappings of religion, this felt like a refreshing journey into something essential and truly meaningful.